1. Musk de Lumière
  2. The materials
  3. Lime
Green limes, one halved, on a travertine slab with water droplets in warm light

The materials · Citrus

Lime

The cooked green

Botanical name
Citrus aurantifolia
Origin
Mexico
Part used
Fruit
Extraction
Steam distillation, bergaptene free

From Mexico to the atelier in New Jersey

Lime is the wild cousin at the citrus table. Where lemon is clean and bergamot is gracious, lime is loud, green and a little sweet in a way that can feel almost tropical. I use it when a composition needs an edge that lemon is too polite to give.

What lime is

Lime oil can be cold expressed from the peel or steam distilled from the crushed whole fruit. Ours is distilled. The heat of distillation transforms the oil, softening the raw peel character and creating a sweet, slightly candied, coumarin like note that expressed lime never has. This is the lime of a good cocktail rather than the lime of the cutting board. It is treated to remove bergaptene, so it is safe on skin in the sun.

Where our lime comes from

Our lime comes from Mexico, the largest exporter of limes in the world and the home of the small, intensely aromatic Key type, Citrus aurantifolia, rather than the larger Persian lime found in supermarkets. The heat of the Mexican lowlands pushes the fruit to full aromatic strength, and the distilleries there have refined the whole fruit method over generations. A distilled lime from a cooler place is thinner and lacks the sweet depth that makes the Mexican oil so useful.

How lime smells

Fresh, strong, sweet lime with a coumarin like softness underneath. It is greener than lemon and rounder than you expect, with a faint warmth that lets it sit comfortably beside herbs and spices.

Lime in our chapter

A note from the atelier

I chose distilled lime over expressed lime for Paradis de Bleu on purpose. Expressed lime would have been sharper, but the distilled oil carries a sweetness that shakes hands with the fennel and star anise beside it.

The Perfumer

Questions about lime

What does lime smell like in perfume?

Lime smells green, sharp and fresh with a sweeter, slightly candied side when it is distilled. It is bolder than lemon and often used with herbs and spices.

What is the difference between distilled and cold pressed lime oil?

Cold pressed lime smells like the raw peel, sharp and bitter. Distilled lime is made from the crushed whole fruit and is sweeter and softer, with a coumarin like warmth.

Which Musk de Lumière fragrance uses lime?

Paradis de Bleu opens with Mexican distilled lime alongside lemon, lavandin, juniper and the anise seeds.

The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière

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