1. Musk de Lumière
  2. The materials
  3. Vanilla
Cured vanilla pods, one split to show the seeds, tied with twine on travertine

The materials · Resins

Vanilla

The cured orchid

Botanical name
Vanilla planifolia
Origin
Madagascar
Part used
Cured pods
Extraction
Solvent extraction, absolute

From Madagascar to the atelier in New Jersey

Vanilla is the fruit of an orchid, and it smells of nothing when it is picked. Everything we know as vanilla is created afterwards, in months of curing, sweating and drying, until the green pod turns black and glossy and fills with scent. It is the most patient sweetness in the world, and I use it with the restraint it deserves.

What vanilla is

Vanilla comes from the pods of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid whose flowers must be pollinated by hand on the single morning they open. The green pods are harvested, blanched, sweated under blankets and sun dried over weeks, and then rested for months more, during which vanillin and hundreds of other molecules develop. Our vanilla is an absolute, solvent extracted from the cured pods, which captures far more than vanillin: the balsamic, boozy, faintly floral and smoky depth of the real bean.

Where our vanilla comes from

Ours comes from Madagascar, the source of the world's finest Bourbon vanilla, where the orchid is grown by smallholders on the humid northeast coast of the island and cured by hand in the traditional way. The warm, wet climate of the region and the long, careful curing give a bean that is rich, creamy and complex, with the rum and dried fruit facets that make Madagascar vanilla the reference. This origin is recorded on our house cards rather than in the formula books, and I print it on that basis.

How vanilla smells

Sweet, balsamic, boozy and faintly floral vanilla. It is darker and more complex than any vanilla flavouring, with rum, dried fruit, a faint smoke and a creamy, almost leathery depth that lasts on skin for a day.

Vanilla in our chapters

A note from the atelier

Chérie Oud is the only chapter where vanilla speaks aloud, and even there it speaks beside clove and above patchouli, so that it smells of a pod split open on old wood rather than of a kitchen.

The Perfumer

Questions about vanilla

What does vanilla absolute smell like in perfume?

Vanilla absolute smells sweet, balsamic and slightly boozy, with rum, dried fruit and a faint smoke. It is far richer and darker than vanilla flavouring or synthetic vanillin.

Why is Madagascar vanilla considered the best?

Madagascar grows and cures most of the world's Bourbon vanilla, and its humid climate and traditional hand curing give beans of exceptional richness and complexity.

Which of your fragrances contain vanilla?

Paradis de Bleu, Rosée Blanche and Chérie Oud each carry vanilla absolute. In Chérie Oud it is at the heart of the composition.

The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière

The House List

New chapters, private releases, and the occasional letter from the house.

One or two letters a month. Nothing else.