1. Musk de Lumière
  2. The materials
  3. Rosemary
Wild rosemary sprigs with pale blue flowers on a slab of travertine in warm light

The materials · Herbs

Rosemary

The hill in the heat

Botanical name
Rosmarinus officinalis
Origin
Tunisia
Part used
Flowering tops
Extraction
Steam distillation

From Tunisia to the atelier in New Jersey

Rosemary is memory in its rawest form. Brush past a bush in the sun and the scent stays on your hand for an hour, sharp, green and resinous. In a fragrance it does the same, waking the skin before the warmer notes arrive.

What rosemary is

Rosemary oil is steam distilled from the flowering tops of Rosmarinus officinalis, the evergreen Mediterranean shrub. The oil varies enormously by origin. Some rosemary is dominated by verbenone, some by camphor, and the type I use is rich in cineole, the fresh, slightly medicinal molecule that also gives eucalyptus its clarity. This cineole type is cleaner and more conifer like than the camphor heavy oils, and it sits more elegantly beside citrus and lavender.

Where our rosemary comes from

Ours comes from Tunisia, where rosemary grows wild across the dry hills of the north and the interior and is harvested by hand rather than farmed. Tunisian rosemary is the classic cineole type. The plant that survives on those stony, sun struck slopes produces an oil that is bright and resinous with a distinct conifer edge, less heavy and less camphoraceous than Spanish rosemary. It smells of the hill in the heat rather than the kitchen shelf.

How rosemary smells

Aromatic, camphoraceous, conifer and resinous. There is a green freshness at the top that reads almost like pine, then a warm herbal body, and a faintly sweet, woody trail that lingers after the sharpness has gone.

Rosemary in our chapters

A note from the atelier

Rosemary is my safeguard against sweetness. Wherever a chapter has vanilla or tonka waiting beneath, I place rosemary near the top, and the whole composition stays awake.

The Perfumer

Questions about rosemary

What does rosemary smell like in perfume?

Rosemary smells fresh, green and resinous with a camphor and conifer edge, like the herb crushed in the sun. In perfume it brightens openings and balances sweet or heavy notes.

Why Tunisian rosemary?

Tunisian rosemary is wild harvested from dry hills and belongs to the cineole type, which is cleaner and more conifer like than the heavier camphor rich oils from other origins.

Which Musk de Lumière fragrances use rosemary?

Chérie Oud and Sultanat Oud both open with Tunisian rosemary beside lavender.

The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière

The House List

New chapters, private releases, and the occasional letter from the house.

One or two letters a month. Nothing else.