- Musk de Lumière
- The materials
- Vanilla
The materials · Resins
Vanilla
The cured orchid
- Botanical name
- Vanilla planifolia
- Origin
- Madagascar
- Part used
- Cured pods
- Extraction
- Solvent extraction, absolute
From Madagascar to the atelier in New Jersey
Vanilla is the fruit of an orchid, and it smells of nothing when it is picked. Everything we know as vanilla is created afterwards, in months of curing, sweating and drying, until the green pod turns black and glossy and fills with scent. It is the most patient sweetness in the world, and I use it with the restraint it deserves.
What vanilla is
Vanilla comes from the pods of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid whose flowers must be pollinated by hand on the single morning they open. The green pods are harvested, blanched, sweated under blankets and sun dried over weeks, and then rested for months more, during which vanillin and hundreds of other molecules develop. Our vanilla is an absolute, solvent extracted from the cured pods, which captures far more than vanillin: the balsamic, boozy, faintly floral and smoky depth of the real bean.
Where our vanilla comes from
Ours comes from Madagascar, the source of the world's finest Bourbon vanilla, where the orchid is grown by smallholders on the humid northeast coast of the island and cured by hand in the traditional way. The warm, wet climate of the region and the long, careful curing give a bean that is rich, creamy and complex, with the rum and dried fruit facets that make Madagascar vanilla the reference. This origin is recorded on our house cards rather than in the formula books, and I print it on that basis.
How vanilla smells
Sweet, balsamic, boozy and faintly floral vanilla. It is darker and more complex than any vanilla flavouring, with rum, dried fruit, a faint smoke and a creamy, almost leathery depth that lasts on skin for a day.
Vanilla in our chapters
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IIParadis de BleuThe Leaves · in the base
In Paradis de Bleu it is a trace of sweetness at the very bottom of the green chapter, the warmth beneath the moss.
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IVRosée BlancheThe Climbing Rose · in the base
In Rosée Blanche it softens the base beneath the rose, a creamy warmth against the vetiver and labdanum.
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VChérie OudThe Trunk · in the heart
In Chérie Oud it is the subject of the heart, the cured pod laid beside tonka and clove at the centre of the trunk.
A note from the atelier
Chérie Oud is the only chapter where vanilla speaks aloud, and even there it speaks beside clove and above patchouli, so that it smells of a pod split open on old wood rather than of a kitchen.
Questions about vanilla
What does vanilla absolute smell like in perfume?
Vanilla absolute smells sweet, balsamic and slightly boozy, with rum, dried fruit and a faint smoke. It is far richer and darker than vanilla flavouring or synthetic vanillin.
Why is Madagascar vanilla considered the best?
Madagascar grows and cures most of the world's Bourbon vanilla, and its humid climate and traditional hand curing give beans of exceptional richness and complexity.
Which of your fragrances contain vanilla?
Paradis de Bleu, Rosée Blanche and Chérie Oud each carry vanilla absolute. In Chérie Oud it is at the heart of the composition.
The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière
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