- Musk de Lumière
- The materials
- Geranium
The materials · Flowers
Geranium
The green rose
- Botanical name
- Pelargonium graveolens
- Origin
- Egypt
- Part used
- Aerial parts
- Extraction
- Steam distillation
From Egypt to the atelier in New Jersey
Geranium is the rose that grows on a leaf. The scented pelargonium smells of rose, but of a rose that is green, sharp and a little minty, as if the flower had been crushed with its own stem. It is one of the most useful florals in perfumery and one of the most misunderstood.
What geranium is
Geranium oil is steam distilled from the leaves and stems of Pelargonium graveolens and its hybrids, the scented geraniums of the South African cape that were carried across the world for their leaves rather than their small pink flowers. The oil is built on citronellol and geraniol, the same molecules that give rose its scent, with a fresh minty edge from isomenthone and a green, slightly metallic brightness. It can stand in for rose, extend rose, or give a composition a rosy freshness without any flower at all.
Where our geranium comes from
Our geranium comes from Egypt, where it is grown in the fertile fields of the Nile valley and delta south of Cairo and harvested twice a year. Egypt is the largest producer of geranium oil in the world, and its oil is known for a warm, rosy profile with a green freshness that is less minty than the Bourbon type from the island of Réunion. The hot dry Egyptian climate pushes the rose molecules forward, and the oil that results is the most rose like of all the geraniums. The geranium in Impériale Oud is recorded in our books as a Bourbon type without a country, and so I print none for that chapter.
How geranium smells
Rosy, with citronella and mint. It opens green and bright, almost lemony, then turns rosy and slightly sweet, with a fresh minty coolness that never quite leaves it.
Geranium in our chapters
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IHayalThe Crown · in the heart
In Hayal it sits in the heart beside neroli and clary sage, the green rose among the blossoms of the crown.
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IIParadis de BleuThe Leaves · in the heart
In Paradis de Bleu it is the rosy thread through a green heart, the flower hidden among the leaves.
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IVRosée BlancheThe Climbing Rose · in the heart
In Rosée Blanche it stands beside the Bulgarian rose in the heart and gives the climbing rose its leaves and its dew.
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VIImpériale OudThe First Root · in the heart
In Impériale Oud a Bourbon type geranium extends the rose of the heart, adding the green sharpness that keeps the crimson from becoming jam.
A note from the atelier
Every rose in my chapters has a geranium beside it. The flower gives the beauty and the leaf gives the truth, and a rose without its leaf smells, to me, like a photograph rather than a garden.
Questions about geranium
What does geranium smell like in perfume?
Geranium smells rosy and green with a fresh, minty edge, like a rose crushed with its stem. It is used to extend and freshen rose notes or to give a rosy quality on its own.
Why is Egyptian geranium so widely used?
Egypt is the world's largest producer of geranium oil, and its warm, rosy profile with a green freshness makes it the most rose like of the geranium types.
Which of your fragrances contain geranium?
Hayal, Paradis de Bleu and Rosée Blanche carry Egyptian geranium in the heart. Impériale Oud carries a Bourbon type geranium.
The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière
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