1. Musk de Lumière
  2. The materials
  3. Geranium
Rose geranium leaves and small pink flowers on handmade paper in afternoon light

The materials · Flowers

Geranium

The green rose

Botanical name
Pelargonium graveolens
Origin
Egypt
Part used
Aerial parts
Extraction
Steam distillation

From Egypt to the atelier in New Jersey

Geranium is the rose that grows on a leaf. The scented pelargonium smells of rose, but of a rose that is green, sharp and a little minty, as if the flower had been crushed with its own stem. It is one of the most useful florals in perfumery and one of the most misunderstood.

What geranium is

Geranium oil is steam distilled from the leaves and stems of Pelargonium graveolens and its hybrids, the scented geraniums of the South African cape that were carried across the world for their leaves rather than their small pink flowers. The oil is built on citronellol and geraniol, the same molecules that give rose its scent, with a fresh minty edge from isomenthone and a green, slightly metallic brightness. It can stand in for rose, extend rose, or give a composition a rosy freshness without any flower at all.

Where our geranium comes from

Our geranium comes from Egypt, where it is grown in the fertile fields of the Nile valley and delta south of Cairo and harvested twice a year. Egypt is the largest producer of geranium oil in the world, and its oil is known for a warm, rosy profile with a green freshness that is less minty than the Bourbon type from the island of Réunion. The hot dry Egyptian climate pushes the rose molecules forward, and the oil that results is the most rose like of all the geraniums. The geranium in Impériale Oud is recorded in our books as a Bourbon type without a country, and so I print none for that chapter.

How geranium smells

Rosy, with citronella and mint. It opens green and bright, almost lemony, then turns rosy and slightly sweet, with a fresh minty coolness that never quite leaves it.

Geranium in our chapters

A note from the atelier

Every rose in my chapters has a geranium beside it. The flower gives the beauty and the leaf gives the truth, and a rose without its leaf smells, to me, like a photograph rather than a garden.

The Perfumer

Questions about geranium

What does geranium smell like in perfume?

Geranium smells rosy and green with a fresh, minty edge, like a rose crushed with its stem. It is used to extend and freshen rose notes or to give a rosy quality on its own.

Why is Egyptian geranium so widely used?

Egypt is the world's largest producer of geranium oil, and its warm, rosy profile with a green freshness makes it the most rose like of the geranium types.

Which of your fragrances contain geranium?

Hayal, Paradis de Bleu and Rosée Blanche carry Egyptian geranium in the heart. Impériale Oud carries a Bourbon type geranium.

The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière

The House List

New chapters, private releases, and the occasional letter from the house.

One or two letters a month. Nothing else.