Petitgrain

A tree gives three perfumes. The blossom gives neroli, the fruit gives bitter orange oil, and the leaves and twigs give petitgrain. Of the three, petitgrain is the one that smells most like standing beneath the tree itself.

What petitgrain is

Petitgrain is steam distilled from the leaves and small green twigs of the bitter orange, Citrus aurantium var. amara. The name means little grain and comes from an older practice of distilling the tiny unripe fruits. The oil is dominated by linalyl acetate and linalool, the same soft molecules found in lavender and bergamot, which is why petitgrain slips so naturally between citrus and floral notes. It is the affordable sibling of neroli and, to my nose, no less beautiful.

Where our petitgrain comes from

Our petitgrain comes from Paraguay, the reference origin for this material. Bitter orange trees grow half wild across the Paraguayan countryside, and the oil is distilled by small farms in simple stills, often within hours of cutting the branches. The subtropical climate gives leaves rich in linalyl acetate, and the Paraguayan oil is considered the benchmark against which every other petitgrain is judged. It is woodier and greener than the Italian type, with a bitter freshness that I find irreplaceable.

How petitgrain smells

Sweet floral and stemmy, with neroli and citrus facets. It smells like orange blossom seen through green leaves, with a woody bitterness at the end that keeps it grounded. It lasts longer than the citrus oils and softens as it dries.

Petitgrain in our chapter

• IIINéroli de NuitThe Blossom · in the heart

  In Néroli de Nuit it gives the blossom its leaves, sitting in the heart beside neroli and orange flower absolute so the whole tree is present in the chapter.

A note from the atelier

In Néroli de Nuit I wanted the tree, not just the flower. Petitgrain is what makes the difference. Without it the blossoms float; with it they are attached to a branch.

Questions about petitgrain