- Musk de Lumière
- The materials
- Amyris
The materials · Woods
Amyris
The candle wood
- Botanical name
- Amyris balsamifera
- Origin
- Haiti
- Part used
- Wood
- Extraction
- Steam distillation
From Haiti to the atelier in New Jersey
Amyris is the tree the islanders called candlewood, because its branches are so full of oil that they burn like torches. Its distilled wood smells sweet, soft and faintly smoky, and it was once sold as West Indian sandalwood. It is not sandalwood, but it has a warmth all its own.
What amyris is
Amyris oil is steam distilled from the dried wood of Amyris balsamifera, a small evergreen of the citrus family that grows in the Caribbean. The wood is left to season for months before distillation, and the oil is rich in valerianol, elemol and eudesmol, sesquiterpene alcohols that give it a smooth, sweet, balsamic woodiness with a faint smokiness that grows as it dries. It is gentle, long lasting and an excellent partner for resins, vanilla and heavier woods.
Where our amyris comes from
Ours comes from Haiti, the principal source of amyris oil in the world, where the tree grows wild on the dry limestone hills and the wood is gathered and distilled locally. The poor soil and long dry season concentrate the oil in the wood, and Haitian amyris has a sweeter, cleaner character than the material from other Caribbean islands. Like the vetiver from the same island, it has a dry brightness that makes it feel lighter than its warmth suggests.
How amyris smells
Woody and sweet, with a slightly smoky facet as it dries. It opens with a soft balsamic sweetness, then settles into a dry, creamy wood with a faint suggestion of smoke and pepper. It lasts for hours and never shouts.
Amyris in our chapters
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IIParadis de BleuThe Leaves · in the base
In Paradis de Bleu it is one of the softer woods of the base, the sweet warmth between the cedars and the vetiver.
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IVRosée BlancheThe Climbing Rose · in the base
In Rosée Blanche it warms the base beneath the rose, the soft wood beside vetiver and frankincense.
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VChérie OudThe Trunk · in the base
In Chérie Oud it deepens the trunk, a sweet smoky wood beneath the vanilla and tonka.
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VIIIRoyale OudThe Taproot · in the base
In Royale Oud it is one of the many woods of the taproot, the candle wood among the resins.
A note from the atelier
Amyris is the wood I use when sandalwood would be too creamy and cedar too dry. It sits exactly between them, and it has a faint smoke that makes everything around it feel lived in.
Questions about amyris
What does amyris smell like in perfume?
Amyris smells sweet, soft and woody with a faint smokiness, somewhere between sandalwood and cedar. It is a gentle, long lasting base note.
Is amyris the same as sandalwood?
No. Amyris was once sold as West Indian sandalwood, but it comes from an unrelated Caribbean tree. It is sweeter and smokier and lacks the creamy depth of true sandalwood.
Which of your fragrances contain amyris?
Paradis de Bleu, Rosée Blanche, Chérie Oud and Royale Oud each carry Haitian amyris in the base.
The Perfumer · Musk de Lumière
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